Still Loving the 1920s – Drop Waist Dress

August 15, 2013February 3, 2014117 Comments

1st photo courtesy of Ar Baurial, Sept. 1929; 2nd photo courtesy of Yours Truly, Aug. 2013

After sewing and researching my Great Gatsby 1920s/30s Beach Pajamas, I really fell in love with 1920s fashions. I wanted to make a drop waist dress this time and found a free online pattern for a Great Gatsby inspired top by Sew Be it Studios here.

When I printed it out in adobe, I shrunk the pages slightly and used the “fit to page” option. I cut the X-Small, and it was still far too big. I had to take off approximately 10 cm (4″) from the back (2″ from each side of the back pieces) and I also made it longer so that I could wear it as a dress, with a slip, or as a top, on its own.I inserted a centre lapped zipper in the back, but did not lap it very much (on purpose) as I wanted to see the line of navy down the back that the zipper adds. I liked the design element this provided. However, I was not sure how to ‘end’ the zipper at the bottom, since it was not lapped right into the seam allowance, so I just tapered down to nothing on both sides. I need to research how to insert an exposed zipper and next time, will insert it properly.I also added a vintage gold button and fabric loop closure at the top of the back of the dress. I finished the seams with lace seam binding. I’ve never done this before and really liked the effect, especially with the dainty floral fabric pattern.

Seam Finishing with Lace Seam Binding / Back Zipper and Vintage Button with Fabric Loop Closure

Seam Finishing with Lace Seam Binding / Back Zipper and Gold Vintage Button with Fabric Loop Closure

I think it is definitely reminiscent of the 1920s and reminds me of this vintage dress from the 20’s that I found online.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/118078022/vintage-1920s-dress-1920s-dress-spirit?ref=usr_faveitems

The pattern called for use of a lace netting in semi-circular shaped pieces on the shoulders, but I thought these would look too costume-y and it would also be difficult to wear a jacket over top of them. So, instead, I sewed the pieces out of the dress fabric, two for each shoulder, then turned them right side out after sewing them together. I pleated them first, ironed them flat and basted the pleats, then sewed them to both shoulders.

Of course, Kitty became interested in the tree photo shoot and started to stalk the scene.Cat Bombed UP A TREE!! Who Else Can Say That?

Eat My Cake and Sew it Too

July 28, 2013February 3, 2014117 Comments

The lovely and beautiful Wellington Sewing Bloggers Network have officially declared today, July 28, 2013, Let Us Sew Cake Day. This group is a wonderful and talented bunch of sewists that I have met through the blogosphere and they constantly have such great sewalongs, ideas and meet-ups.So, in honour of this prestigious day, I have sewn Cake Patterns Cabarita Knit Top as well as eaten the better part of an entire sugar flower covered cake! Wisely, I coordinated my cake with my Cabarita Top, because to not have done so, would have been rather gauche. I love the collar piece as well as the v-neck back of this knit top. It really elevates a T-shirt into dressed up wear, so simply and easily. The back is also drafted to be cut on the bias and Steph recommends to keep it that way so that it hugs the curves of your back. My fabric was on the thicker side and quite crisp, so I did not interface the cabarita front collar piece, but would have if I had used a softer and flowy fabric.

The only alteration I made was to narrow both the front and back sleeve by removing 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the bottom of each sleeve. I had to then shorten the sleeve binding accordingly. This way, the sleeve hugged my arm perfectly. It’s easy to figure out a custom measurement for you, simply by measuring your bicep, around where the sleeve ends.

The only thing I would do differently next time, is to attach the sleeve binding after I had sewn the side seams. The patterns calls for you to attach it first, but I find it more difficult to line up the cuff at the seams that way and also, any seam finishing you do, may be more visible since it extends down to the bottom of your cuff.

I like how the front rolled collar and V-neck back really bring the emphasis up to your face and upper half. If you used contrasting sleeve and neck bindings and collar piece or reversed the stripes in a striped fabric, this would play it up even more. The next one I make, I’d like to try contrasting pieces.
The V-neck back is very streamlining and I really enjoy the surprise of it and the symmetry it provides my back.

One of the unique aspects of this pattern is that you ‘draft’ your own size based on your bust, waist and hip measurement. I chose to make mine with zero ease and using my exact measurements, but you can also choose to give it more ease by selecting a larger measurement for each area.

And, you’ve seen him lurking around in the background of the above pics, but it’s likely no surprise that Kitty also enjoys Cake.I highly recommend to eat your cake and sew it too!!

I was also recently interviewed by Mel at A Curious Kiwi for Indie Pattern Month. Check out her post, here. Thanks Mel!

If Jerry Garcia Were A Surgeon…

May 11, 2013October 11, 201441 Comments

I needed to create my final top project for my Garment Construction class, so decided to make Simplicity 8133. It is not the most flattering of patterns, but my mum got it free up north at a tag sale somewhere AND it fit all the criteria for the assignment, so I decided to make version E, without the ties. I selected fabric I already had in my stash, a brushed cotton in a lime/olive green and orange with a floral/camouflage pattern.

When I sewed up the top, it looked EXACTLY like a medical scrubs top. Only one that a totally tripped out doctor from the late 60s/early 70s would wear. There was no way around it. I set about attempting to remedy the situation.

My good friend, Chris Lucas pointed me in the direction of the Pavlova skirt she made and the fabulous Seashell Pocket on it. I downloaded this pocket pattern from Stephanie at Cake Patterns and added two of them to the front of the tunic. I love these pockets, they are adorable, actually look like seashells AND are functional, to boot. This is not the last you’ll see of them in my Made By Me wardrobe. I then added fabric covered buttons to the pockets as well as buttons to the tunic where a “placket” would be. The colours were still a little too, in your face Deadhead, so I dyed the whole thing (including pockets and fabric covered buttons) with a dark brown dye to tone it down. And, to top it off, I wore it with a scarf, chain metal belt.

“My Nurse Hat is Too Big…”

So, after all these embellishments, does it still look like a medical scrubs top??? Yes, yes it does. 🙂 And, I will be seeing YOU, for your upcoming surgical needs at the 1970 – Grateful Dead, Keep On Truckin’ – Memorial Hospital. Ask for me.